Usually, it started out with a conversation like this:

+ “What are we going to have for lunch?”
– “I don’t know. Can’t think of anything.”
+ “Me neither. Let’s go to the market, then.”

Or this:

+ “What are we going to do this weekend?”
– “I don’t know. Can’t think of anything.”
+ “Me neither.”
– “Visit the market?”
+ “Sure.”

While traveling, visiting local markets (and grocery stores) has always sat on the top of my bucket list. I love people-watching and local markets are the best place to do this while sipping a cup of freshly-pressed orange juice or having a bite of that delicious Kibbling (fried cod) sandwich–topped with onion sauce.

Amsterdam is vibrant with local markets.

Some of them, like the flower market (Bloemenmarkt), Waterlooplein flea market, Het Spui book market (Boekenmarkt) and the ever-popular Albert Cuyp Market can be pretty packed with tourists–but even then, I still find the whole experience entertaining.

It’s all about the music in the air, the clinging and clanging of goods and utensils, the explosion of scents and colors, and the murmurs on the stalls on the left, and on the right: everything is so alive, so vibrant, so attractive!

My favorites to visit are actually the neighborhood markets–smaller local markets in different residential areas where locals get their fruits and vegetables, fish, meat, and bread. The one closest to where I was staying the last time was the Ten Katemarkt in Amsterdam West (the hip foodcourt De Hallen is nearby!), and the other one I love is the Noordermarkt on Saturdays–when they have their farmer’s market.

Some tips before visiting the local market in Amsterdam:

1. Find out what kind of market you’d like to visit. There are book market, flower market, flea market, fabric market, art market, vinyl market, and many more.
2. See the opening days/hours. Some markets closed early (or completely closed) on certain days. You don’t want to be disappointed!
3. If you don’t have enough time to explore the popular markets, find a neighborhood market that is closest to where you stay. You can always get some food there.

You can find more information about the local markets in Amsterdam (location, opening hours/days, and what they sell) here and here.

Personally, these are some of my favorite things to see (or buy!) when I visit Amsterdam’s local markets:

1. Heavily-decorated vintage plates and cups.
2. Old pins.
3. Beautiful fabric.
4. Delicacies from a country I’ve never visited, served from a food truck.
5. Watercolor postcards or canvas paintings.
6. Home-made jam, tea-mix, or spices.
7. Potted plants!

 

When I’m alone, I can spend hours in these markets: standing in front of different stalls, sniffing the fresh produce, reading the labels on jars, running my fingers through vintage dining utensils, and admiring the naturally artistic way the sellers move behind their counters.

It reminds me of the feeling I have while I am sitting by the beach, gazing at the rolling waves licking the sand.
It’s strange how I can always feel somewhat calm in the midst of such a bustling environment.

Do you have that one friend you haven’t seen in years—but somehow you know that both of you still consider one another as trusted friends?

I guess that’s how I would describe my friendship with Chika (hope that feeling is mutual!). We knew each other through our blogs, became friends, randomly went to Singapore together, and saw each other at irregular intervals. I couldn’t remember the last time I saw her, really—must have been more than 2-3 years ago. So, of course, when she messaged me out of the blue and invited me to come along with her to Bali for a 3-day trip, I said YES.

MY DASHING ‘BELATED’ BIRTHDAY

When we arrived at our hotel, Chika, being the sweet thing that she is, surprised me with a chocolate cake with a candle on top. “Happy belated birthday!” she shouted, and we laughed, and we screamed, and we hugged, and then I blew the candle.

“Why are you so romantic?”
“I know. I should be a guy,” Chika laughed. “I think I’ll be a romantic boyfriend.”

And of course, soon after, conversations about love, heartbreak, guys, and relationships ensued: over a plate of chocolate cake.

I guess this was how we set the tone for the rest of our Bali getaway. For Chika, this would be her well-deserved vacation to take some rest from work. For me, as Bali has been my second home, I don’t have any plans for sightseeing or exploring. We just wanted to stay in, watch movies, order room service, and catch-up.

DASH HOTEL, SEMINYAK: OUR QUIRKY RABBIT NEST IN BALI

Chika invited me to stay at Dash Hotel in Petitenget, Seminyak, during our getaway. I didn’t think I’ve ever heard about the hotel before; but when I saw the facade, I realized that I have been passing this hotel many times!

Why, it is located near some of Seminyak’s beach-hangout places like Potato Head and Ku De Ta. And it is also only a walking distance from some of my favorite spots, like Biku and Cafe Organic.

I have always found this particular hotel intriguing, as it looks so bold and ‘out of place’ in the midst of Seminyak’s signature style; just like a rebellious teenager. Every time I passed this hotel, I always told myself that I wanted to see what it’s all about one day.

And finally, I got a chance to do it! (thanks, Chika!)

Inside, the hotel’s playful design screams fun, young, and vibrant. It’s so bold in a way that you might love it or hate it (like you would a durian!). I happened to like it simply because being there, looking at those vibrant colors, made me feel happy and energized. The hotel is so unique in its own way, that I would definitely tell a story about the quirkiness of it and my fun experience staying here in some dinner parties.

I instantly fell in love with ‘the Red Bunny’—which turned out to be… everywhere.

There’s a giant upside-down Red Bunny by the red poolside (yes, the pool is red!), a big Red Bunny plushie on the bed (place upside-down), a smaller upside-down Red Bunny on the table, and little Red Bunnies on our yellow bathrobe! (I still regretted my decision for not buying the smaller Red Bunny… it’s so soft and cute!)

The room (including its walls and ceiling) is vibrant with industrial/urban street style. Chika and I found it so intriguing that we started snapping pictures, to see which side of the walls would appear to be more photogenic. We laughed when we realized that we have a big bathtub in the middle of the room, right behind our huge bed: it’s sitting there in the open.

“This place could be such a fun place for adventurous young couples in honeymoon!” I climbed into the bathtub, fully-clothed. “It’s so big; I could even sleep here!”

But I guess our favorite spot in the room was our bed: it was so soft and comfortable; the perfect place from where we can watch movies, browse the Internet (yes, wi-fi is really fast!), and of course: having our girl’s talk.

So, that was how most of our days went by. Swimming in the red pool, lounging on its pool chair, climbing up the stairs to The Shack (where they have a pretty rooftop bar and jacuzzi), and lazying in bed watching HBO movies from the TV set, wrapped in our Red Bunny bathrobe.

Of course, with their playful and quirky approach, I would assume that the hotel would be wild and noisy: full of young people celebrating their summer or spring breaks. But, turned out, during my stay (even in the evening), I wasn’t bothered by any loud noises at all! There were also some couples and families staying here. Chika and I even talked to an old Italian couple on vacation during breakfast.

DINING IN AT MYA KITCHEN

When we’re hungry, we dragged ourselves to the hotel’s restaurant because we didn’t feel like going out. Luckily, the food was surprisingly tasty (were you, like me, skeptical towards hotel’s restaurants sometimes?), so we kept coming back to Mya Kitchen, ordering so much food every time (but our plates were always clean!), switching between comforting Asian and Western food.

My comfort lies in savory dishes like chicken wings, pasta, and porridge, while Chika’s is in sweet drinks like this one (Chika said it was sinfully delicious, but I would leave it to her to explain):

Our favorite time at the restaurant, though, was breakfast time.

We were surprised when we got a menu with so many options! The staff told us that they didn’t serve breakfast buffet, but we could order anything from the menu, as much as we wanted, and they were all included in our breakfast package!

Upon hearing this, Chika and I ordered a bunch of food and drinks; we ended up having our breakfast in 2 rounds. We were laughing when the table was so cramped with our plates and bowls; but again, we finished them all. Very impressive, indeed! (or we’re just that hungry).

WHEN CHIKA WAS GONE.

On our last day, Chika left for the airport very early in the morning, as she needed to catch a meeting in Jakarta. When she was gone, the room suddenly felt so empty and quiet.

I hugged the Red Bunny and tried to sleep some more, but I couldn’t seem to do it, so I just turned on the TV and watched some movies. I found out that I also got a mild fever and a cold, so rather than going down for breakfast, I decided to order room service. The chicken porridge was warm and tasty, and after a while, it gave me the push to finally leave the bed and hit the shower.

At around 10, I went up to the gym, thinking that I would do some morning yoga (they have yoga mats!), but as I passed the Rabbit Hole (their spa), I changed my mind. What’s better than having a massage when you have a cold?

I entered the spa, and the lady told me that they were free, so I could get my massage right away if I wanted to. I said yes immediately and decided on a back and shoulder massage; as I started to feel some tension developing in my head and shoulders.

To be honest, I did not expect much from the massage. I thought it would just be an excellent way to relax a bit, but turned out the lady who massaged me was very good!

It wasn’t one of those massages when you cringed instead of loosened up. The pressure was good, and the ambiance was so serene. I liked it when my massage room was quiet; with a faint smell of aromatherapy. I could feel some of my tight muscles unfurled; especially around my shoulders; and when I was putting my clothes back on after the massage, my mild headache (that came with the cold in the morning) had disappeared.

I went down to the lobby area afterward, where they have a sun-bathed seating area/library to do some journaling before I checked out (follow my Instagram to have a look at my Bali travel journal).

I have always loved some quality time with my girls; even when we have nothing better to do but watching movies together or reading books next to each other (or dining in!). With some friends, it seems like no matter how long you haven’t seen each other, you can always catch up so effortlessly; as if there’s no expiry date on your friendship whatsoever.

I felt so lucky and blessed knowing that I have some wonderful girlfriends around me. The ones who support and believe in me. The ones who wish to collaborate instead of competing. The ones who may not have similar views or beliefs about life with me, but mature enough to not let differences get in our way.

Do you have a circle of girlfriends you cherish as well?
How do you spend quality time together when you can’t meet up frequently?

DASH HOTEL SEMINYAK

After spending more than 5 years going back and forth to Bali (well, Ubud, to be exact), I have finally found some of my most favorite body care products that are made in Bali. I had a great amount of time illustrating them as well, so here are 7 of Bali body care products I personally love!

1. ALAM ZEMPOL SOLID PERFUME: BERGAMOT

I have been a fan of their solid perfumes for years! Each one comes in a small tin can that can be easily slipped into my wallet, jeans’ pocket, or handbag. I always bring one with me during international flights as well (due to security checking, it’s too much of a hassle to have liquid perfume in my bag).

However, what I love the most about their series of solid perfume is the soft, faint, and fresh fragrance. Every time I smell it, I feel as if I have just gotten out of a shower. Rose, Jasmine, and Frangipani are also some of my favorite fragrance from their collections. However, the Bergamot is currently my favorite!

2. BALIPURA AURIC SPRAY: PURE LOVE

I love spraying Balipura Auric Spray as face/body mist after exposing myself to the hot Balinese sun. Well, actually, this one is ‘marketed’ as a ‘healing spray’: made from holy water, blessed by a Balinese priest, and infused with crystals. Thus it helps to ‘cleanse’ your aura.

Despite this backstory, I simply love the way this spray feels on my skin; as well as its muted fragrance. Pure Love has always been my favorite fragrance. Besides, who doesn’t need a bit of pure love every now and then?

3. DUKHA SUKHA MINERAL DEODORANT: SOOTHE

This mineral deodorant has been my life-saver! In principle, I do not like gelly/liquidy deodorant with fragrances. I prefer the powdery ones, but most of the times, they stain my clothes. Dukha Sukha is a mineral deodorant without fragrance (although they come in three types: pale pink-Soothe, pale yellow-Glow, and pale green-Fresh).

To use it, simply wet the mineral with water, and use it like you would use a usual roll-on deodorant. And I have to tell you that this deodorant has helped me to clear the dark skin underneath my armpit; due to shaving. After a year of using it, I was surprised to see that my armpit’s skin has returned to its original shade! This deodorant is quite expensive but it can actually last for about a year.

4. UTAMA SPICE ESSENTIAL OIL: LAVENDER

Utama Spice has always been my go-to brand for essential oils. First, because they are working with local farmers. Second, because their price is quite reasonable. Third, because their oil is not too thick or more diluted than the more expensive (or serious) brands. For me, these reasons are enough to choose their essential oils for casual use.

If I have to choose one essential oil, Lavender would be it! I can use it to cure acne/pimples, repel mosquitoes, make a body spray, or put a few drops of it on my pillow for a good night’s sleep. (I also love to use this oil as a vaginal wash!). Don’t forget to dilute your essential oil with other carrier oil/water before using it!

5. DROP BALI VIRGIN COCONUT OIL

I love virgin coconut oil and I am not too picky about it. Most of the times, any brand will do. However, Drop Bali is definitely my favorite. Not only because it comes in a beautiful glass bottle (with a pipette!), but also because of its smooth texture and faint coconut fragrance. It feels as if their coconut oil is being absorbed more quickly when I applied it to my skin.

I use virgin coconut oil as body lotion, toothpaste, face/make-up cleanser, moisturizer, scrub (add some salt or coffee powder), lip balm, hair conditioner, and after-sun lotion. Sometimes, I also use it for oil-pulling. It is very versatile!

6. NADI’S HERBAL FACE CREAM: BALI MOON

This face cream does magic to my skin! I use it at night, before going to bed–and I always find my skin so supple and moist in the morning upon waking up. True, this face cream is very oily. Truth to be told, the moment after you’re applying it, your face will shine like fries. For this reason, I only use it before bed. But maybe this ‘oily’ feature is what gives the cream its magic?

The face cream contains some Ayurvedic ingredients like Amla and Tulsi oil. Amla (gooseberry) is believed to be rich in antioxidants and vitamin C; thus can help to tone and tighten our skin, make it firm and soft. Tulsi (sweet basil) oil has anti-inflammatory property to deal with skin irritations and acne. It also has a soothing and relaxing effect.

To date, this is the cheapest face cream I’ve ever used in my life. I’ve been using this (and only this, without other products apart from coconut oil and sunblock) for my face for more than 4 years now.

7. BALI ALUS MASSAGE OIL: CEMPAKA (CHAMPACA)

I love Bali Alus’ massage oil because of its faint fragrance and its smooth feeling when applied to the skin. The oil helps my fingers to slide smoothly when I massage my shoulder, arms, or legs early in the morning, or before my evening shower.

Cempaka (champaca) is my favorite fragrance so far because it truly reminds me of the smell of Bali! Sometimes I also use it as a moisturizer before bed, dabbing it a bit on my knee, elbow, and the sole of my feet.

Where can you find these Bali body care products?

Some grocery shops in Bali, like Bali Buda, Coco Supermarket, or Down to Earth Market have it. Or, the best way to get them is by ordering them online via your favorite e-commerce platform!

It was a cloudy Saturday, but the weather forecast seemed promising. So, with our rented motorbikes, we drove down to the beach.

Our destination was a beach close to Nusa Dua. A friend told me it was a considerably quiet beach. We followed our Google Map faithfully–but it led us through a truly challenging off-road path. We didn’t give up, though, and thankfully, the sign to the beach showed up before we changed our mind.

The beach has a cave-cliff entrance–resembling the beaches along Uluwatu, and we need to climb down hundreds of stairs to get to the water. Good thing was that we were surrounded by trees along the way, providing us shelter from the afternoon sun.

The beach was quiet, as promised. The water was crystal clear, calm, and perfect for swimming. The sand underneath my feet was so soft and smooth. Vale was happy to find a huge cave for us to put our stuff and take a nap. It was a perfect spot to lie down on your beach towel and read a good book (I am currently reading Essence and Alchemy: A Natural History of Perfume by Mandy Aftel).

I love the fact that I could still find people from the village fishing here, along with visitors (and a dog!) who came for surfing, swimming, or having a picnic.

There were only a few stalls selling food and drinks at the parking lot (young coconut, instant noodles) but there were none by the beach. And nobody was trying to sell me anything. After experiencing some crowded beaches here in Bali, this lovely little beach gave me room to breathe. To just sit still and stare at the seawater lapping at the sand.

PS. Some of the pictures (capturing me by the beach) are courtesy of Daniele Besana.

This morning, I took some time to sit by myself in a coffee shop, accompanied by a warm cup of cappuccino and Alice Hoffman’s The Story Sisters. I started the day early, wishing to get more work done. These past few weeks have been hectic with deadlines, and at times, I felt as if my brain was boiling.

Ubud’s sky was gray. The air felt fresh against my skin as I sat there, sipping my coffee in silence. I left Alice Hoffman on the side, and found myself appreciating my surroundings instead: the dogs barking, the birds chirping, the motorcycles passing, the trees around the Monkey Forests rustling–the sounds of the morning. And I noticed how wonderful it was: the feeling of warmth that crawled from the tip of my fingers that were cupping the coffee mug.

Suddenly, I was still.

I dropped everything in that fleeting moment: my to-do list, the emails I need to sent, the invoices that have not been paid, the calls I need to schedule, the sentences for a web copy…

For the time being, there was only me, a cup of coffee, and Ubud in the morning.

As the warmth of the coffee mug permeated my skin, a deep feeling of gratitude swept me off of my feet, and I could feel my muscles relax: I smiled. I truly felt grateful to be here: to be back in Ubud, to be able to enjoy a cup of coffee leisurely at 8 in the morning, to be surrounded by the people I love, even to have today’s deadlines and work ahead of me!

And of course, I was lucky.
Of course, I should be grateful.

However, since the first day I came back to Ubud, I hadn’t actually felt it. I had been buzzing around, meeting friends, snapping pictures, painting, attending events, going out, typing away on my laptop, but I hadn’t really felt the wave of gratitude for the simple things: for being able to be here.

To be back.

I almost forgot how beautiful that magical feeling was: an instant wave of gratitude and appreciation towards life as it is. It was not one of those moments when you say gratitude as a ritual or part of a routine–or those moments when you said to yourself: okay, I need to be grateful. Or those times when something nice happened to you, and you were grateful for that.

I was referring to something spontaneous. A spontaneous rush of gratitude.

I wonder when was the last time I had this sudden rush of gratitude and appreciation, something so strong and so spontaneous, and at the same time: so fleeting. I could only go back to as close as a few years ago–when I was lying on my back by the beach in Sebayur Island in Flores.

The island was dark and the sky was full of stars.
So full I was almost sure that I could see the whole of the Milky Way.

This morning, the whole of the Milky Way was spinning inside my cup of coffee. And happily, I let myself spinning in it.

One thing I love the most about my hometown, Bogor, is its proximity to the mountains. (Well, that, and the abundance of delicious street food). To me, beaches are lively and intense, forests are adventurous and mystical, but mountains are tranquil and relaxing. When I want to do nothing, I go to the mountains.

To do nothing at all is the most difficult thing in the world, the most difficult and the most intellectual.

—Oscar Wilde

A few days ago, I found my latest favorite spot for ‘doing nothing’ in Mount Pancar. I was surprised knowing that it was only 30-40 minutes away by car from Bogor, and the journey was free from traffic jams.

We drove to the mountain from Sentul Selatan exit; passing the posh residential complex and a gigantic amusement park before climbing further up until the road became narrow and bumpy. The sounds dimmed, the air cleared, the mountain top appeared, and we drove through the villages, further up, and further up. We stopped at Babakan Ngantai village and entered an establishment that looked like it could be someone else’s house.

Well, it is, to some extent.

The Hidden Gem of Mount Pancar.

Tirta Arsanta is a gorgeous family-owned hot spring retreat overlooking the mountain.

The place reminded me of those stories Indonesian kids wrote for our composition homework in elementary school: those stories about how we spend our fictional weekend visiting our fictional grandfather in a fictional village.

Only this time, the place is real.

The resort hosts four teak joglo villas—each with a private mineral hot spring pool—surrounded by gardens where bananas are hanging from its tree. The villas are rented for IDR 1.5 million on weekdays and IDR 1.8 million on weekends. However, the room is so spacious—and with extra beds, you can have 4-5 people sleeping there comfortably. Two private hot spring pools, each with a spacious seating area and private shower room, are also available for visitors who do not wish to spend the night at IDR 350K for 4 people.

Down below is a small river you can cross to reach the vegetable plantation and the pine forest. To get there, be prepared to say hello to the gouramis, the chickens, and the geese. If you’re lucky, you can also meet the friendly owner, Pak Faisol, and converse with him on various different subjects through the night.

Tirta Arsanta exudes a certain familiar warmth and smells of lemongrass. I was surrounded by the sounds of nature and the beautiful view of the mountain. Everything that came out from the kitchen tasted delicious: the crispy banana fritters, the pecel madiun, the grilled rice with salted fish, the kampung fried rice, the ginger lemon tea…

I sometimes wonder if eating our meal in a beautiful place can actually improve its taste.

I spent my time around the compound mostly barefoot, feeling carefree, and child-like. That day, I came with a book I wanted to finish, but at the end of the day, I was mostly just walking around, relaxing, daydreaming, and enjoying the view. Phone signal, like the Wi-Fi connection, was unreliable (the villagers use Indosat); but it was actually a good thing. I love to unplug every once and a while, as it helps me to rest and be still.

In the evening, Pak Henri—the manager of the resort, invited a massage lady from the nearby village. Bik Nur came to my room equipped with herbal oil and a sarong. The staff had prepared an extra bed for my full body massage; and after more than an hour, my muscles were so relaxed I felt like a jellyfish.

As the temperature went down, I stepped into the private hot spring pool by my villa’s terrace—feeling its comforting heat on my skin until sleepiness nudged me on the shoulder.

The Village of Hot Springs and The Pine Forest.

Mount Pancar is rich in hot springs. Near Tirta Arsanta retreat, there are 3 sources of hot springs the locals referred to as Red crater, Green crater, and Black crater. A 20-minute stroll from the resort, crossing the river, would take you to these craters. There was no strong sulphuric smell in the air, as the village hosts mineral hot springs, not sulphuric ones.

“You see, there are mosses growing here,” Pak Henri said when we visited the Green crater. “The locals believe that you can use it as a beauty mask. You can scrape the moss, add the mineral water from the hot spring, and blend it into a paste to be smeared on your face. After a while, it would harden and you’d feel as if your face was stretched out. Do you want to try? I can get some for you later when we’re back.”

“Sure!” I exclaimed. It would be an experience to get this local beauty treatment while I was there!

That morning, Pak Henri took me and my friend, Chyntia, on a hike to the craters and the pine forest surrounding the village. It was quite a mild hike (I was on my leather sandal), but the track could be steep at times. It took almost 3.5 hours for us to go there and back, but the hike offers lovely scenery of the vegetable plantations and the villagers plucking chilis and climbing trees.

Pak Henri, like all the staff at Tirta Arsanta, came from the village. During our hike to the pine forest, we made several stops at the villagers’ houses when the owner called out to him.

“We’re walking to the pine forest,” he said.
“Walking? From the resort? So far!” the villagers responded.

I was scared hearing this as I was reminded of the day when I got lost in Taipei’s Yangmingshan National Park, looking for hot springs. At the time, tired and sweating, I stopped by a police station to ask about the exact location of the hot springs, but it seemed like the police officers could not explain it in English.

They could only say, “Ah, far, far.”
When I asked, “How far?”
The police officers replied by extending their hands, and said: “Faaaaaaaaaaaaaar.”

But the pine forest was not that far, and we reached it in another 30-40 minutes. The forest is where the locals go for dating or family outings. “I don’t know why they love it here,” said Pak Henri. “I mean, there’s nothing here but trees.”

But Chyntia and I loved it there. The breeze was lovely and the view was beautiful. We walked around the area, posing at a huge rock, and watching a ladybird. Chyntia also found a green pinecone. It made me feel as if I was transported to a scene from Ghibli’s My Neighbor Totoro.

A Soak in Time.

The best thing to do after a hike was dipping our sore feet in the refreshing water of the river; had some breakfast, and then retreated to our villa for a hot spring soak by the terrace. Pak Henri had prepared our traditional moss-mask from the hot springs, so Chyntia and I started our DIY beauty treatment by the pool. I could feel how strong the moss-mask stretched my skin; although the application made our bathroom quite messy and muddy (sorry, Pak!).

Maybe the time spent ‘doing nothing‘ can actually be a time well-spent, even if it’s just a day!

Lately, I am so used to long-term travels—in which I am actually working while traveling. It is fun, yes, and I am grateful for the opportunity; although to be honest, at times it can also feel intense and tiring. Pausing a reset button for a day; doing nothing but enjoying nature and having a relaxing time with a friend was actually reinvigorating.

For a day, forget Facebook and Instagram. Get your feet dirty. Smear muddy moss-mask on your face. Smile to the villagers as you pass by. Smell the lemongrass. Sweat as you hike. Jump into the river. Soak in the hot spring. Slow down.

And then, be still.

I am very protective of my mornings.

One thing I appreciate the most about working independently is the flexibility that comes with it: the flexibility to manage my own time based on my own pace. For me, this means protecting my mornings.

Naturally, I wake up early; as soon as there is sunlight in the room—which is why I love to sleep with my curtains and windows open. But I love to take my time in the morning. To go slow. I spend some time just lying in bed, feeling the way my body tingles with life after an 8-hour rest and remembering my dreams. Then I would reach out to my bedside table, grab a book, and start reading. I reserve at least the first 2 hours in the morning for myself: reading, writing in my journal, having coffee, dancing, or listening to uplifting or inspiring talks and interviews.

For this reason, I love late breakfast. I don’t like to prepare some food or fill myself up first thing in the morning, so breakfast has to wait. Until later. Until around 10.

Some mornings deserve a big hearty breakfast.

Those mornings are not meant for instant coffee and leftovers, yogurt and granolas, or apples and bananas. They are the kind of mornings when you are craving to be pampered with food. Good ones.

You know exactly when you experience these mornings from the time you wake up. You could be very sad, very happy, very tired, very energetic, very heartbroken, or very much in love; but you know that you just want to start your morning by slouching in someplace nice, ordering a full breakfast served in a beautiful plate with beautiful presentation, and sipping a good cup of coffee. A big cup of coffee.

When I woke up groggy one morning, D suggested that we have it: that big hearty breakfast. Not knowing that by asking me to eat, he already lifted up my mood level a notch.

“Pick a place,” he said. “And we’ll go there.”

My ‘Secret place’ pick for breakfast in Ubud.

D and I have this thing about ‘secret places’. On slower days, after clearing each other’s schedule for the day, one of us would exclaim: “I am going to take you to a secret place today!”

A ‘trip’ to a secret place means:

1. it is a place we have never visited together before
2. it is either a beautiful place or a place offering a beautiful experience
3. we will spend some time there relaxing and lazying around
4. the person suggesting the secret place would offer to pay

That particular morning, for the big hearty breakfast, I decided to choose a ‘secret place’.

There was this cafe called No Mas in Ubud‘s Monkey Forest Road that we frequented in the evenings to catch up with friends. Below the cafe, there was this hipstery-looking place called FOLK. Usually, it was already dark and closed when we’re about to have some drinks at No Mas.

I read some online reviews of the place and found quite a bunch of surprisingly mouth-watering testimonials. So, I told D to drive to No Mas; because our secret place for breakfast in Ubud would be ‘nearby’.

I always opt for good food, not Instagrammable food.

When our order came, they looked exactly like Instagram food. So pretty and neat and clean, carefully carrying all the right color combination to look wonderful on my camera. They even came with edible flower petals. And the portion was quite big.

Imagine our surprise when instead of simply looking good, the food actually tasted delicious!

The good reviews were spot on!

We had the epitome of a big hearty breakfast: toast, poached egg, bacon, spinach, potato, and beans—and also a healthier version of toast, poached egg, avocado, and feta cheese. Plus a cup of cappuccino and latte. Each element of the dish is delicious in itself; each one a bomb of flavors, even when tasted separate.

A good hearty breakfast can always make my mornings and lift up my mood. And that day, I must have chosen a good secret place.

Are you the sunrise type, or the sunset type?

I have been sharing a room with Mumun from the travel blog Indohoy during some of our trips, and before bed, she always said enthusiastically, “Let’s wake up early tomorrow and watch the sunrise!” – to which I responded with: “Well, let’s see tomorrow.”

Usually, the next day, we would open our eyes at around 7—looking at each other sleepily, still curling in bed, our stomachs growling, craving for breakfast. Nobody mentioned the sunrise that has completely risen by then.

So, let’s just say that I’m more of the sunset type.

My latest sunset spot in Ubud.

Apart from the Tjampuhan Ridge, lately, my favorite sunset spot in Ubud is hidden just in the midst of its center. A few meters across Bisma Street, before the entrance to Tjampuhan Ridge, a rocky uphill path takes you to a narrow alley leading up to Subak Sok Wayah. There, a winding narrow track awaits: lined with cafes, guesthouses, and shops selling paintings and souvenirs on the left, and rice fields on the right.

Cafes and restaurants with sunset views are plenty along the track, perfect to wind down after a stroll around Ubud. A small cafe even offers a reading of your Vedic charts—could be a fun pastime for the curious! I personally love waiting for sunset while reading on Kindle at Sari Organik or Cafe Pomegranate. They are located not too far away from one another.

The Golden Hour.

There is something magical with the lights at this hour. When I was little, I used to think that sunset was a gate to another realm. There must be a door somewhere behind those beautiful lights, leading up to an enchanted forest with imps, fairies, and talking animals. As a grown-up, I still get the chilling excitement of watching the sun goes down; still having the feeling that I have just been transported ‘somewhere’ without actually moving, or leaving.

The In-Between.

My friend once told me, that we can feel the Divine between our breath: that tiny moment in-between inhaling and exhaling. There are many in-between moments in our daily lives: when we walk, in-between the changing of our left and right foot; when we brush our teeth, in-between the moment when the brush leaves and touches our teeth; when we eat, in-between the tasting and the swallowing of our food.

In watching sunsets. In-between light and dark: that tiny window into the magical world of a pivotal moment when eternity sneaks in through something so mundane and temporary.

SARI ORGANIK
Address: Jl. Subak Sok Wayah, Tjampuhan, Ubud
Phone: (0361) 972087

CAFE POMEGRANATE
Address: Jl. Subak Sok Wayah, Ubud
Phone: 0878-6080-3632